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Spoiler

Battlefield 3, Spec Ops The Line, MoH Warfighter, either MW3 or Black Ops 2? I'm only sure about (3) though., that's definitely Warfighter

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Finally one I know: Trader of Stories

Edit:
Ha, now I don't have to post a new one 

Even most prerendered stuff looked bad, which is why I completely skipped over all these games.

Riven?

Yep, it's Kyrandia 2 (a cutscene near the end, I believe).

No

It's Murder on the Mississippi. I only know of it because some dude wanted to turn the setting into a Maniac Mansion Mania game.

Here's a fresh one, let's not let this die:

Spoiler

I was waiting for somebody to not rename the file

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GOLD RUSH!

[imgzoom]http://i.imgur.com/MJUMama.jpg[/imgzoom]

Something like this in your .htaccess should do the trick:

# Turn on the RewriteEngine
RewriteEngine On

#prevent outside image access
RewriteCond %{HTTP_REFERER} !^$
RewriteCond %{HTTP_REFERER} !^http://(.+\.)?domain.com/.*$ [NC]
RewriteRule .*\.(gif|jpe?g|png)$ http://domain.com/no_hotlink.gif [R,NC,L]

This will redirect all image file requests not originating from within *.domain.com to http://domain.com/no_hotlink.gif

That reminds me vaguely of Michael Crichton's Timeline. (Tech Company builds teleportation device, accidentally discovers time travel, Archeology students in France go back in time to the hundred years war to rescue their professor.) Pretty cool book, mediocre but enjoyable movie with Paul Walker.

The voltage has to be really close; it can be slightly more than supposed to; if it's too little, the device will usually just refuse to work, not break.
Connecting a 20V adapter to a 19V device should be fine, although for microelectronics it's a different story than for electric devices.

As for the amperes, less won't do but more is fine as long as both are roughly in the same magnitude; connecting a 4A adapter to a 3A device is fine; the device will simply use only 3 of the provided 4.

BUT: don't connect it to the other laptop yet, get yourself a volt/ampere meter and measure its output instead.

Also, given that connecting your mom's adapter to your own laptop is much safer, I'd try that instead. (lower voltage, enough ampere, also I guess a broken adapter breaking a laptop is much more likely than a broken laptop breaking the adapter)

It should be possible to map the tablet to the screen(s) in any way you want. Just look through the options in the tablet's properties. (I did this exactly once a few years back, but I distinctly remember being able to move and resize the tablet area inside the desktop area.)
Here's a video for an Intuos5, the procedure should be similar with other Wacom tablets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClDSx_wE-sE#t=133s

Tablets map to the desktop in an absolute fashion (as opposed to the mouse, which transfers movement to the cursor), so mapping the tablet to just one monitor is perfectly possible and should be extremely simple to set up.

I'm pretty sure that if you take a screenshot, areas colored in "magic pink" (255, 0, 255) will end up transparent, yes.
The problem is that this process is going to be visible to the player, if only for a fraction of a second.

What you could try is use a room that's bigger than the screen so you can have an object off-screen, set the sprite as object graphic, tint the object, then merge the object into the background (this should retain the tinting). Now you can grab the off-screen part of the background.
The problem here is that the object will "physically" disappear from the game, so you can only do this once for every object.

About recoloring sprites: tinting only works for the entire character's appearance; however one could dynamically recolor sprites on a per-pixel basis.
Say you imported a pants sprite; if you only used greyscale colors for the pixels that are supposed to change color, you could iterate through every pixel and recolor it based on the brightness value.

I coded a module that did the same thing a few years ago, and for hotspot detection I iterated through every third pixel horizontally and vertically and calculated the average of all x and y coords of each hotspot to get their center position.
This detects 100% of hotspots on the first try, provided that they are at least 3x3 pixels big, shows the icon at the actual center, and is very fast, too.
(And in theory allows hiding one pixel easter egg hotspots simply by placing them on coordinates where one of them isn't a multiple of 3 )

It used a very convoluted way of displaying the icons though and I haven't released a proper, current version yet.

One suggestion I had: add the name of the hotspot next to the icon.

I'm reminded of when my boss tried to connect an ancient tape backup device which had a 25 pin serial plug to a PC using a modem cable (25 to 9 pin) and a 9 pin to usb mouse adapter. Never mind that the cable's configuration would have to be exactly right by accident and that you'd need usb drivers for the device (which obviously didn't exist).

And a few days ago, the husband of a client made their apartment go dark because when trying to fix the cable of a floor lamp he had accidentally cut while unwrapping the lamp, he couldn't be bothered to connect the wires to each other separately and put them all together inside the screw joint.

Sooo, let me get this straight, because I can't make heads or tails of your post: do you want to "fix" the mouse? By connecting the mouse's wireless dongle to the camera's usb port? How would you then connect the camera to the PC?
I'm curious how your "project" will turn out, keep us posted.

Pearls = dew drops?

The first thing I'd try is replacing the power supply. They're pretty cheap (though you should consider getting a not so cheap one) and it sounds like yours is currently dying of consumption.
A friend of mine had to do the old powering on and off to get his PC to work and the problem disappeared once got a new power supply.

I have this one; it was 50â,¬ and it's pretty quiet and most important of all delivers a steady 500 Watts.

WHAT IS THE ERROR MESSAGE?

Ahem, sorry.
Do you get an error when you try to unpack the archive or run the game?
If it's the former: get the latest version of 7zip or try a zip archive: ddraw(wine).zip