Ask something - We can help.

[straydogstrut]

That's actually the Mac way of uninstalling software. You can just drag the app's icon to the trash. Note this is the main app icon, usually found in your Applications folder. If you drag the one from the Dock you're just deleting the shortcut to launching that app. Rather counterintuitively, you also unmount drives the same way: by dragging them to the trash (the icon will change to an eject symbol). If you're not worried about any supporting files such as preference files that may remain, then you're done.

Otherwise you want to look for the Application Support folder in your user Library folder (normally /users/your user name/Library/ if location hasn't changed in the latest OS) and manually remove the associated files. Good explanation of this here -  http://www.cultofmac.com/90060/how-to-completely-uninstall-software-under-mac-os-x-macrx/ - though I would avoid the last part about kernel extensions. Just don't go deleting everything willy nilly..

I actually use CleanApp - http://www.syniumsoftware.com/cleanapp - to ensure an app is (supposedly) fully removed. However, unless your Mac is getting slow you can pretty much live happily in ignorance just dragging apps to the trash.

EDIT: I just realised you said 'game'. Same as above but if it's via Steam then remove it that way. If it's via the MacAppStore you can likewise remove it from the Updates tab there, or by clicking and holding on the icon in LaunchPad until it jiggles then clicking the X to remove it.

[Stupot]

Cool, thanks Stray. I'll try what you say. I'm okay with computers but Macs make me feel totally useless. Some things you just come to expect, like an uninstall option, a right mouse button and a key each for backspace and delete. Haha.

Anyway, nice to see you around man. Don't stray too far next time :-)

[straydogstrut]

Some things you just come to expect, like an uninstall option, a right mouse button and a key each for backspace and delete. Haha.

Control-click for right mouse button or - if your mouse supports it - change to two button mode in Preferences.

I don't really use delete but apparently:

fn + backspace
Deletes the characters to the right of the cursor.

âÅ'Â¥ option + backspace
Deletes the first word on the left of the cursor.

âÅ'Ëœ cmd + backspace
Delete a complete line or paragraph on the left of the cursor. It can also be used for removing files.

Goodness next you'll be wanting a PrntScrn key[emoji6]

(it's Cmd-Shift-3 or Cmd-Shift-4 depending on whether you  want the whole screen or just a part. Have to admit I have trouble remembering which is which)

Anyway, nice to see you around man. Don't stray too far next time :-)

Thanks for the kind words. I hope to be more present in 2016

[Gurok]

(it's Cmd-Shift-3 or Cmd-Shift-4 depending on whether you  want the whole screen or just a part. Have to admit I have trouble remembering which is which)

Just to highlight how with-it Macs are, this is the same function key set for which Apple+Shift+1 and Apple+Shift+2 eject the floppies.

I would be happy if someone could tell me where the insert key (or equivalent function) is on a Mac.

[Monsieur OUXX]

Blender : how to render for pixel-art but still with a tiny bit of softening?


We're currently struggling with one step in the rendering process, and we don't have sufficient knowledge of Blender to resolve this.
Basically we need to render at a final resolution of 320x200, and the rendering needs to meet the two following requirements:
1. needs to have a tiny bit of antialiasing so that the rendering is not as ugly as pure "nearest neighbour",
2. ...while not being some blurry, dirty antialiasing
Additionally, the outline of the rendred sprites should be perfectly crisp so that the transparent parts are preserved clean. (you know: no dirty pink pixels around).

I thought of asking our 3D artist to render the scene in 640x400 and then apply a nearest-neighbour 50% downscale in the last minute of the rendering -- that usually does wonders in pixel-art. But even that, we don't know how to do in an automated way.

--> Do you know how to do exactly that, or would you have some better process to recommend?
Any Internet resource would be approeciated. I couldn't find any, apart from "pixel art tutorials" which mostly focus on cell-shading, but not on resolution issues.

[Kumpel]

That down scaling trick makes perfectly sense to me. automation-wise maybe the tool "batch conversion/renaming" of the grahic viewer http://www.irfanview.com/
could help you. In there you can change the resizing process in detail, put the whole folder of bigger rendered pictures in and get the smaller version with one mouse click.

[Monsieur OUXX]

That down scaling trick makes perfectly sense to me. automation-wise maybe the tool "batch conversion/renaming" of the grahic viewer http://www.irfanview.com/
could help you. In there you can change the resizing process in detail, put the whole folder of bigger rendered pictures in and get the smaller version with one mouse click.

I'm almost certain there's a way to do that directly in Blender, as some sort of post-processing step. I've seen similar things in the "video encoding" part of Blender.


EDIT: What we were looking for is compositing. It allowed us to play with the rendered video after it's rendered.

[Scavenger]

I'm doing some palette magic, and I want to have a day/night cycle. What's the best way to simulate sunset/night by changing RGB values? I know that, at night, blue light is affected the least and red light is affected the most, and I want the player to be able to see what they're doing (so I can't just blanket darken everything until it's pitch black).

What would be the best way to simulate the reddish hues of sunset, the blue caste of night, and a pinkish hue in the morning? I can interpolate between them, but I don't know what kinda formula I should be using on the colour channels.

[Snarky]

This is a really interesting question, and one I looked into (though not very thoroughly) when I was putting together my Day/Night module demo. (I found it difficult. The basic Photoshop filters I experimented with did not give particularly good effects.)

If you think of it from a physics POV, the color of something is determined by the light that hits it as well as its particular absorption and reflection characteristics. I would guess that you can probably approximate that pretty well by just multiplying the color of the light with the "color" of the object, perhaps after suitable calibration.

So as a first approximation, I would use a multiply formula, using a shifting light color. Since our eyes tend to compensate for light intensity, I wouldn't vary the brightness all that much. I might also treat the sky separately, perhaps designing a few color ramps manually and interpolating between them. (If you want an example, Cryo's Dune has beautiful day-night fades.) The color of the light is mainly determined by the color of the sky, so you could even derive the color to use for the palette multiplication from the average hue of the sky.

Secondly, you might want to incorporate the Purkinje effect: in dim light we perceive blue more clearly than other colors, so e.g. reds will appear to darken more. I think this will go a long way to give it that spooky night-time look.

BTW, apparently sunrise and sunset look pretty much identical, subject to atmospheric conditions. The perceived difference is psychological more than actual.

[Scavenger]

Thanks Snarky! I tried out your suggestion and it works perfectly! It looks incredibly pretty and using a multiply layer really helps to maintain the luminosity of the colours! That's way better than what I had before!

On a different note, though, is there anyone who can speak Hawai'ian, Samoan or another of the Polynesian language family on these forums? I need some help translating some names, I can't seem to find the right words myself.

[Kumpel]

Please delight us with a gif or youtube video of your outcome in the critics lounge! I would love to see a pretty pixel art day/night cycle

[LimpingFish]

Right! Hello, I was wondering if somebody could help me find a way to obtain the "InterPoser Pro 1.9.x (or above)" plugin for Cinema4D. The author has vanished from the face of the web, and nowhere (and I mean nowhere) seems to have information about if or when the plugin will ever be available to purchase again. It...it boggles the mind! Google searching just results in dodgy keygen sites, Russian torrents, and old threads on CG forums which amount to little more than people shrugging their shoulders.

If anybody has any info (please don't post warez links or illegal uploads) about it, please let me know.

[selmiak]

Searching the german googlenet I found this german shop:
http://www.software3d.de/interposer-pro.html

I have never used this shop or heard of it before, no idea if they are legit or just want to steal your c4d serial number, at least they ask for the first 11 digits of the c4d serial and seem to have a lot more 3D stuff in stock. webtranslator + brain + paypal could work here

[LimpingFish]

Cool! They seem pretty legit, but it wouldn't hurt to send them an e-mail.

Thanks a bunch!

[Snarky]

"Entschuldigung, are you scammers? Ja/nein"

[selmiak]

np. Just for your interest, they ask for your serial to make sure you can even use the product, as this plugin only works up to Poser 9 and Poser Pro 2012.

[MiteWiseacreLives!]

So I live in a rural area and I'm trying to decide on an Internet provider upgrade.
I have satellite internet now, it's ok.
Looking at either radio broadband or cellular hub (way better pricing on this lately)
Question is what kind of speeds can I expect from cell network? Is it consistent?
Can't find much good information on this.
I can get up to 4bars at my house.

[Monsieur OUXX]

So I live in a rural area and I'm trying to decide on an Internet provider upgrade.

Sorry to hijack your question MiteWiseacreLives but I have a question too.

Has anyone ever used the utility Sqirlz Water reflections"

It's a cool little standalone utility to generate animated water reflections in a still image. If you never heard of it, then good for you, you learnt something today, but that's not what I want to ask
My question is : Have you ever managed to generate a reflection when there's a foregound and a background?

Let's take this image :
[imgzoom]https://68.media.tumblr.com/f80f11589afe89634f4c55eb6c2b41af/tumblr_oi2ujgvSqN1tsfksfo2_500.png[/imgzoom]

I want to generate this :
[imgzoom]https://68.media.tumblr.com/2a3f7bf58c8cd776ee50884d5c575eeb/tumblr_oi2ujgvSqN1tsfksfo1_500.png[/imgzoom]
Notice how the reflection of the background moutains start at their base, while the reflection of the foreground island starts at its base. It wouldn't work if the reflectio of the island started as high up as the mountains' base.

Attempt #1 :
(the red outline is the reflection area, as defined in Sqirlz)
[imgzoom]https://68.media.tumblr.com/6c453cdf2a802bcbc32168c295367315/tumblr_oi2ujgvSqN1tsfksfo3_500.png[/imgzoom]
This doesn't work because the software apparently doesn't like non-convex shapes. It breaks the reflection.

Attempt #2 : (using a baseline)
[imgzoom]https://68.media.tumblr.com/7911e2ad63240c069065993cdb1f3fe8/tumblr_oi2ujgvSqN1tsfksfo4_500.png[/imgzoom]
This doesn't work because the baseline for the island is inside the reflection outline (the red outline)


So, does anyone have an idea?

=========

EDIT

For anyone interested, here's a clever answer by Grundislav

I would recommend would be playing around with your background a bit and making a version to generate your reflection. In this case, you want the reflection of the island to show up more towards the bottom of the screen, so I would push it up in your reflection background like so.



Then when you define the rectangular reflection area in the water, it will look like this:



It might take a little playing around to get the base of the reflection and the base of the island in your original background to line up, but this is the best way to do it.  One way would be to use a walk-behind to cut out the area of water above the upside down island, but I think the easiest way would be to actually have your island as a separate room object and just place it over the water reflection.

[Snarky]

This is the typical case where you bump into the Sqirlz limitations. Best I can think is to make two animations: one without the rock and one with, and stitch them together in Photoshop.

[Firgof]

Have a curious question.  If I'm remastering one of the games I've already put out -- should I retitle my former release thread and rewrite descriptions/put in art to match the new title and such, or should I make a new thread?